Introduction
We are starting out in Pau, in the county of Béarn, a region that today belongs to the nation of France but that considered itself quite independent during most of the Middle Ages. Southern France did not come under direct royal rule until the 13th century at the earliest, and parts went their own way until only a few centuries ago.
The county was very close to the heart of pilgrimage traffic, though. Many pilgrims passed through the county on their way to St. James of Compostella, one of the most important of all medieval pilgrimage destinations. Pau and other towns profited from this activity.
We are headed east, though, not west. Before we get started, you might take a few minutes to learn more about what a pilgrimage was, and some of the concepts and practices that were important to it. This will help you understand better the motives of our pilgrims.